Embroidering the Manta

In our last post we walked you through how the weaving for a manta is done and what materials are typically used. In today’s post we will discuss how the women embroider the manta.

Ayacuchan manta is unique in that it is the only manta that is traditionally embroidered. Although other communities are now sending manta to Ayacucho to be embroidered, the embroidery motifs (flowers and birds) originated in Ayacucho and Huanta. Since the turn of the century, this style of manta has been used in the department of Ayacucho.

Noemi Embroidering

Designs have evolved, most notably the width of the embroidery has increased and the embroidery has become more complex. Each individual woman has a slightly different take on the embroidery. While all embroidery features flowers and birds, the stylization and color of these items vary slightly woman to woman.

emborideryhands

The first step in the process is the women draw the embroidery pattern onto the white swatch that runs down the manta. There are two embroidery styles: Ayacuchan which runs vertically and features parrots and flower, and Huantan which runs horizontally and features peacocks and flowers.

Manta White_Simple 2

Each piece is one of a kind. Initially, the embroidery was far simpler and the width of the embroidery narrower. Flowers and birds had only 2-3 colors, and were basic in form. Now a single flower can include up to 6 colors, as the embroidery has evolved to have a gradient color pattern. One bird can have up to 8 colors depending on the style and size. One manta takes 8-10 hours to embroider.

mantabirds_web
Finally, the embroidery is ironed, which reduces the tension of the embroidery thread and allows the embroidery to lay flat.

For more details on how you can use it in our modern world, check out our next post.

Weaving the Manta

In our last post we talked about what a manta is and its cultural heritage. In today’s post we’ll talk more about how a manta is made. Our mantas are made exclusively by incarcerated men and women in the Yanamilla Prison in Peru. The men in the prison hand weave the manta using back strap looms and the women hand embroider the material.

These days mantas are made from various types of thread, typically cotton. The process begins when the men purchase cotton thread from the prison (this thread is machine manufactured and dyed with synthetic dyes) and use soda bottles and wooden spindles to stretch and strengthen the thread.

Bobbins

Stretching thread

Next, the men warp the loom, creating various color patterns. The men weave the manta on backstrap looms. More experienced and skilled weavers hand weave the curros into the fabric.

Weaving Back strap loom

Curros are figures with symbolic values and most often represent animals and landscapes. The men also use foot pedal loom to weave the border of the manta, which is later sewed onto the edges. This material is also used as the straps for our bags.

Kurus

Each manta has a large, plain white swatch running down the middle of the material. This area is later hand embroidered by the women in the prison.

Manta- white swatch

The women in the prison also use the manta to create bags and cosmetic cases.

emborideryhands

Over time, the manta weave and embroidery style has become more complex and ornate. Only the most skilled weavers can weave curros. The more curros a piece has, the more costly and precious it is. With the availability of finer cotton, the manta and embroidery have become finer.

For more details about how the manta is embroidered and how you can use it in our modern world, check out our next posts.

The Manta Story

A manta, also called aguayo (in Aymara) or q’ipirina (in Quechua) is a rectangular cloth used in traditional communities in the Andes region. Manta has been used for thousands of years by women as shawls, or to simply carry groceries and other goods, or even children on their backs. Not all mantas are created equal: The different colors and weaving patterns found in a manta are important in differentiating one community or ethnic group from a neighboring group.

Ayacucho Landscape

Ruraq Maki works with artisans in the Ayacucho region in Peru. The basic form of a manta typically features colorful stripes and lines of woven figures that are symbolic of local animals and landscapes, called curros. The most intricate mantas can have up to 9 lines of curros, while other mantas have none. The simpler manta, without curros, cost less.

Manta comes in white (traditional), black, pure black, light blue, dark blue, grey, and brown. The Ayacuchan manta is unique in that it contains a large, embroidered stripe down that middle, which is hand embroidered with designs and motifs specific to the city of Ayacucho and the nearby community of Huanta. The Huantan embroidery style is finer and the price is therefore higher as compared to the Ayacucho embroidery style.

Ayacuchan Manta-2

Our products are made exclusively by incarcerated men and women in the Yanamilla Prison in Peru. The men in the prison hand weave the manta using back strap looms and the women hand embroider the material.

For more details about how the manta is woven and embroidered, check out our next posts.

Day 7- What is Possible

Today was the last day in the prison and the moment of truth of if the women would have the jewelry order done and….. They did! There were 4 pieces missing, but for a first go around with a big jewelry order (50 pieces), it’s a fabulous start!

One of the things we did together was write the women’s story for the card that will accompany the jewelry. They wrote:

“Thank you for buying this product, your purchase goes to a good cause!

This product is handmade by a group of incarcerated women in Yanamilla Prison. We are women who are incarcerated for drug trafficking and we have children outside of the prison. We are learning these skills to help our children. Thankfully, for this work, we can send money to our children and help pay for their costs.

We hope when we are released we will continue to do this work and earn money.”

We also reviewed the products together and talked about quality control. While most of the products passed inspection, a few had issues that we needed to address. These products did not make the cut, which is why the order was short, however, it was a valuable learning experience for the women.

After the prison I went to pick up the sewing order from Gladys. Gladys is a formerly incarcerated woman who was very involved with Ruraq Maki’s programs. She was released last year and bought a small house near the prison to start a sewing workshop.

This year, Gladys and another women from the prison, Rosa, opened a workshop in town so they could receive more work. The workshop is small but mighty. There are two machines, a serger, and a cutting table- everything they need to take sewing orders.

Right now they are making clothing, tailoring clothes, making Ruraq Maki products, and taking custom orders from people. When I saw Galdys’ workshop I couldn’t stop smiling. I am SO proud of her and the way she has continued to grow this dream of having her own workshop.
And what makes me even happier is how proud she is of herself. She knows she’s building a future through this business and she is working hard to do it.

I just want to reiterate what has happened here: Gladys was incarcerated for 13 years for drug trafficking. She started trafficking because her husband had stomach cancer and she couldn’t pay for his medical costs. She learned to sew in the prison and spend EVERY DAY working in the sewing room. She saved her money to buy her own machines. After 13 years she was released and opened her own sewing business.

This is what happens when the women are given opportunities to stretch their skill set. This is the story we want to tell for every single woman in the prison. This is why Ruraq Maki exists- to even be a tiny part of this story is enough.

Because this isn’t something we’re just hearing about on TV, this is real life. And every time one of these women succeeds, it gives the others hope that they can too.

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Day 6- Expanding & Collaborations

Today in the prison was an exciting one! The women are nearly done with the embroidered jewelry order and the products look incredible. Since this is the second time the women have made the embroidered jewelry, they are able to focus more on the design of the product rather than the technique- and it shows!
Also, the women picked out the photos of themselves that we will use as product insert cards. I printed out a contact sheet with 3 options for each woman and each one selected the photo that they liked the best. I loved giving the women control over how they are viewed by people in the U.S. and they got a kick out of helping each other choose the best photo.
Halfway through the day, a group of sewing women asked me to come into their sewing area to talk a bit. The women explained to me that they wanted to be part of Ruraq Maki’s production group but weren’t sure what to do next. I was thrilled that they wanted to involved and invited them to participate in the May workshops with Kani.
The 2-week workshop series with Kani will go over how the women can create a sustainable production groups, each part of the production chain, and quality control requirements for export.
The coolest part of the workshops series is that it will involve 3 different organizations coming together to help the women.
Ruraq Maki is sponsoring the workshop and organized all the logistics of the prison permissions. Kani, who works with artisans all over Peru, will be delivering the training, and Maki, who also work with the women in the prison, will be lending us the use of their space and helping with the day of logistics.
Let’s hear it for collaboration!
Because there are 3 organization involved in this workshops series, we are focused on having as many women as possible join in. This is a great opportunity for women from different production groups to work together and learn each other’s strengths.
Our goal is to create cohesion within the production groups so that it is easier for all of us to send order to the women- and easier for the women to fill them.
The prospect of having new women join Ruraq Maki’s group is exciting. One of our long term goals is to start a wholesale program but in order to do that, we need to be able to produce in large quantities, which means we need more women on board. Connecting with a new group, who will also benefit from the work, is a win-win for all!

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